Sacramento, California. When she was in fifth grade, Scarlett Goddard Strahan started to worry about getting wrinkles.

By the time she turned 10, Scarlett and her friends were spending hours on TikTok and YouTube watching influencers tout products for achieving today's beauty aesthetic: a dewy, "glowy," flawless complexion. Scarlett developed an elaborate skin care routine with facial cleansers, mists, hydrating masks and moisturizers.

One night, Scarlett's skin began to burn intensely and erupted in blisters. Heavy use of adult-strength products had wreaked havoc on her skin. Months later, patches of tiny bumps remain on Scarlett's face, and her cheeks turn red in the sun.

"I didn't want to get wrinkles and look old," says Scarlett, who recently turned 11. "If I had known my life would be so affected by this, I never would have put these things on my face."

Scarlett's experience has become common, experts say, as preteen girls around the country throng beauty stores to buy high-end skin care products, a trend captured in viral videos with the hashtag #SephoraKids. Girls as young as 8 are turning up at dermatologists' offices with rashes, chemical burns and other allergic reactions to products not intended for children's sensitive skin.

"When kids use anti-aging skin care, they can actually cause premature aging, destroy the skin barrier and lead to permanent scarring," says Dr. Brooke Jeffy, a Scottsdale, Arizona, dermatologist who has posted her own social media videos rebutting influencers' advice.

More than the physical harm, parents and child psychologists worry about the trend's effects on girls' mental health — for years to come. Extensive data suggests a fixation on appearance can affect self-esteem and body image and fuel anxiety, depression and eating disorders.

The skin care obsession offers a window into the role social media plays in the lives of today's youth and how it shapes the ideals and insecurities of girls in particular. Girls are experiencing high levels of sadness and hopelessness. Whether social media exposure causes or simply correlates with mental health problems is up for debate. But to older teens and young adults, it's clear: Extended time on social media has been bad for them, period.

Young girls' fascination with makeup and cosmetics is not new. Neither are kids who hold themselves to idealized beauty standards. What's different now is the magnitude, says Kris Perry, executive director of Children and Screens, a nonprofit that studies how digital media impacts child development. In an era of filtered images and artificial intelligence, some of the beautiful faces they encounter aren't even real.

"Girls are being bombarded with idealized images of beauty that establish a beauty standard that could be very hard — if not impossible — to attain," Perry says.

The level of detail and information girls are getting from beauty tutorials sends a troubling message at a vulnerable age, as girls are going through puberty and searching for their identities, says Charlotte Markey, a body image expert and Rutgers University psychologist.

"The message to young girls is that, 'You are a never-ending project to get started on now.' And essentially: 'You are not OK the way you are',"' says Markey, author of "The Body Image Book for Girls."

The beauty industry has been cashing in on the trend. Last year, consumers under age 14 drove 49 percent of drug store skin sales, according to a NielsonIQ report that found households with teens and tweens were outspending the average American household on skin care. And in the first half of 2024, a third of "prestige" beauty sales, at stores like Sephora, were driven by households with tweens and teens, according to market research firm Circana.

The cosmetics industry has acknowledged certain products aren't suitable for children but has done little to stop kids from buying them. Drunk Elephant's website, for example, recommends kids 12 and under should not use their anti-aging serums, lotions and scrubs "due to their very active nature." That guidance is on the site's FAQ page; there are no such warnings on the products themselves.

Sephora declined to comment for this story.

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