Jakarta. The streets lining Jakarta’s Chinatown are buzzing as locals prepare for Chinese New Year, known as Imlek to Indonesians.

The Chinese New Year festivities are set to begin on Feb. 10 and are one of the most important celebrations in Glodok, an area initially set up by Dutch colonists as the only designated living area for Chinese-Indonesians. Today, Glodok is Jakarta’s bustling Chinatown with lively street markets, Buddhist temples, and most importantly tasty Chinese food. However, in the lead-up to a presidential election, cost of living pressures, and life post-pandemic, what do Imlek preparations look like for Glodok residents?

Long-time resident Andi Santosa, whose Chinese name is Han Is, volunteers at Vihara Dharma Jaya Toasebio in West Jakarta. Situated in the center of Chinatown, Toasebio temple is a nice escape from the surrounding bustling streets and is one of the more popular spots to visit for Chinese New Year. 

“We are residents here, and we volunteer at the Toasebio temple because it is our asset. The pride of our people is here,” Santosa said.

Alongside other volunteers, Santosa works hard to prepare the 300-year-old temple for Imlek. 

“We have made preparations such as cleaning the temple, replacing the lanterns, and giving it a coat of new red paint,” he said.

Santosa, like other Chinese-Indonesians will spend the eve of Chinese New Year at the temple enjoying traditional Barongsai (Chinese lion dance) and eating popular Imlek dishes such as milkfish with his family. The tradition of consuming milkfish, known as Nian-Nian Yu Yi, holds significant symbolism of happiness and luck for Chinese-Indonesians.

The volunteer noted that New Year celebrations were more restrained this year as it coincided with the 2024 presidential election. “Many events such as the Cap Go Meh celebration were canceled,” Santosa explained.

Cap Go Meh is an annual parade featuring art and cultural performances, celebrated 15 days after Imlek. The festivities span across Indonesia from Bogor in West Java to Singkawang in West Kalimantan.

The tradition has been celebrated by the Chinese community for centuries; however, this year, there are no parades or carnivals, fearing friction and provocation due to the coinciding political campaign to elect the president and legislative members.

“If anything happens, citizens of Chinese Indonesians are usually victims,” said the volunteer. 

Since the early days of Dutch colonization, Chinese-Indonesians have faced discrimination, but relations have greatly improved since the 1998 riot. Nevertheless, in recent years, many Chinese-Indonesians remain cautious during periods of political uncertainty, such as the upcoming election.

“We are not afraid, but we just keep to ourselves so that we don’t get blamed. That’s why we are restrained in this year’s Imlek, however, the significance of the celebration is not lost,” Santosa said.

Outside the temple, Glodok continues to roar with activity as many vendors sell decorations and treats in time for the Chinese New Year. One of these sellers is Aidawaty, Her stall specializes in Kue Keranjang as well as Imlek cookies and candy.

Like many other Chinese-Indonesians, Aidawaty is looking forward to celebrating Imlek by sharing a family meal, wearing new clothes, and praying.

Kue Keranjang which translates to basket cake in English was being sold at many stalls throughout Chinatown. Known as nián gāo to Chinese people, the Chinese New Year cake is most commonly made using glutinous rice flour, brown sugar, and coconut milk.

The cakes were easily spotted around the market by their distinct red and gold packaging. Aidawaty explained the cakes were all made in the Bangka Belitung Islands which is a region in Indonesia with a predominantly Chinese population.

“There is lots of competition,” said Aidawaty as she looked across the lane to another stall selling Kue Keranjang.

“Purchasing power has also decreased,” she added.

Many shoppers stop by the stall, pick up a packet of cookies, and ask Aidawaty, “How much?”.

Accompanying Aidawaty at the stall is her mother who wraps up purchased Imlek treats in a pink plastic bag adorned with smiling faces and the words ‘Thank you’ and ‘Terima kasih’ printed on the side.

Many market shoppers and wanderers were joined by family as they picked up items for Imlek such as fireworks.

For just Rp 50,000 ($3.16), you can buy four Roman candle fireworks to light up when the new moon appears, marking the beginning of the Wood Dragon year.

Each box of fireworks had a theme to suit every firecracker enthusiast, from the mighty 'Power Metal’, to kids' favorites like 'Minions' and 'Barbies', the whole family is sorted.

The impacts of the pandemic, cost of living, and the impending presidential election are not lost on the people of Glodok, but despite it all, the spirit of Imlek is alive and thriving through market stall owners and their clientele.

Glodok market stalls may have decreased, however many have maintained their customer base and appeal for new trade to see them through another Chinese New Year.

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